R Island: June 22-25 2014 Crisfield MD

After an easy run up the Tangier Sound from Onancock VA, we arrived at Somers Cove Marina in Crisfield MD about 11:00. The marina is a state owned and operated facility built in an attempt to bring boaters/tourists to the area. I would estimate that 80% of the 500+ slips were empty. The town in another waterman-based community trying to rediscover itself with the decline in the crab/oyster industry. About 44 new condo units have been built on the affordable waterfront and 90% are sold. Trouble is they are only occupied a few weeks a year and some occasional weekends. Anyway the marina is great, well protected from the Bay with good facilities and is close to the historic downtown.

After settling in, we visited the Waters Edge Grill for a bite of lunch and then across the street to the ice cream shop for a treat. Spent a few hours visiting local shops and then back to the boat. Dinner aboard and a quick bath for the boat. The next day, Monday, we visited the local maritime/town history museum. Amazing how the early 1900's were such a boom time based on oysters. About 5 blocks of the downtown are built on oyster shells including a railroad to the waterfront dock! People even purchased lots entirely under water speculating that the infill of oyster shell would eventually get to them - many were lucky; some are still waiting. A recent condo project was stopped because it would deny access to a few of these underwater lots - go figure. Had lunch at the Chesapeake Crab house - somehow Judie had a hamburger - still not being that big of a fan of seafood! The afternoon was spent with chores.

Crab traps and a small "keeper".

The Ward brothers - famous decoy carvers.

Early soft-shell crab work, crabs must be checked every 3 hours during shedding process.

Tuesday we took a morning walking tour of town with the director of the museum - really great. We were able to get into a soft-shell crab packing facility and see them being delivered, sorted, processed, and packaged - both alive and frozen - for shipping. Trucks leave daily for Baltimore, New York, and Boston. We then went to a hard-shell crab picking facility were they cooked the crab, chilled them overnight, and picked the crab meat out the next day. Just like the long tradition; about 20 people, mostly women, sitting at tables getting paid by the pound of crabmeat they pick. Currently the soft-shell business is the most lucrative option and sustaining the towns. We were treated to a once in a lifetime experience as the ladies started to sing an old church hymns - beautiful tunes to praise the Lord as they worked. Our tour guide said they very seldom sing if strangers are around or they see a recording device.

Crab traps drying, ready to be cleaned.

Soft shell processing

Live and ready for ice, some straw and shipping.

Live hard shell crabs waiting for the large steaming unit.

Picking, packing and singing!

More waiting for the pickers.

The town of Tangier has no automobile access from the mainland since it a small island about 15 miles from Crisfield. Every day the mail boat leaves the island for the mainland and picks up the mail, UPS, equipment like golf carts (the main mode of transportation on the island) and people. Most Tangier residents keep a vehicle at Crisfield and will ride the morning boat, due their shopping, and load everything aboard for the return trip. We watched the process and it was very interesting to see them scurry about as not to miss the boat. Smaller boats do the same process for the 3 communities on Smith Island, just north of Tangier.

The Mail Boat to Tangier Island

You had better be on board at 12:30 - because they all leave on time!

The next day we joined Mike and Lois in a rental car and toured the nearby communities of Cambridge, Oxford, Vienna and Salisbury MD. All water towns; Vienna being the smallest and pretty empty; while Oxford is very prosperous with great tourism and retirement industries. Salisbury is large and well diversified and, being far up-river from the bay - least affected by the fall-off in water related industries. We had started the day with breakfast at Gordon's restaurant. It is open daily from 4:00 am until 2:00 pm for the local town folks to grab a sandwich and coffee. They only offer sandwiches, but you can get just about anything on them. It was mentioned by our guide the pervious day, that they actually clean the place once or twice each year. It was rustic, but good food!